Hiking

A Big Bend Thanksgiving – Day 3

blogsmall-3615

We had one pretty epic hike planned. A seven miler up into the high Chisos Mountains to Laguna Meadow. We woke up early to freezing temps. The leaky ice maker outside our cottage had created a slick spot of ice on the sidewalk. Gramps made the half mile walk from his accommodations to meet us and we headed out. Around 1,600 feet of elevation gain awaited us.

blogsmall-3659

blogsmall-3622

blogsmall-3775

Although it was late November, the leaf change had just gotten going in earnest. The mountains are an interesting mix of desert and forest. Among the cactus and agave are ponderosa pine and oak trees and other plants commonly found farther north in the West. Although we didn’t get to them on this hike, the Chisos Mountains are home to southernmost stand of aspen in the U.S.

blogsmall-3643

A couple hours in we stopped for a longish break for a midmorning snack. Gina, being some kind of bird whisperer, started throwing bits of peanut butter crackers on the ground and small flock of Mexican jays swooped out of the mountains and started chowing down. They nearly ate out of our hands.

blogsmall-3802

We lined up for a group photo after our snack. We should’ve stood closer to the camera.

blogsmall-3670

Gramps recommends climbing trees whenever possible. Especially when you’re 4 miles up a mountain in one of the most remote areas of the country with no real hope of timely medical intervention should you fall and crack open your skull.

blogsmall-3674

We did a lot of lolly gagging so it took us about 4 hours to get to Laguna Meadow. We thought it was pretty funny that there was a weird pit toilet up there. The trail gets a lot of traffic. Many, many groups of hikers passed us on the way up. Most were headed to the South Rim of the Chisos to camp for the night. Some groups planned to make a day trip out of the 13 mile round trip South Rim hike. We saw a man and woman in basically street clothes who said they were doing that. The woman had one of those mesh backpack purse things with the strings for straps with 2 bottles of water in it. I imagine they wanted to kill each other when they got finished.

blogsmall-3729

On the way back, just as the trail started downhill, Gramps broke off and scrambled up the southern peak of Ward Mountain. I soon followed him up there and got what must be the second best view of the Basin.

blogsmall-3725

blogsmall-3744

Views of Casa Grande from Ward Mountain. The top of Casa Grande is the best view of the Basin.

blogsmall-3745

We paused in the howling wind atop the mountain to take a bunch of photos.

blogsmall-3759

Gramps, ala Vanna White, pointing out Emory Peak, the highest point in the Chisos.

blogsmall-3740

Gramps isn’t afraid to do what it takes to get the shot.

blogsmall-3770

blogsmall-3531

One of my favorite things to do in Big Bend NP is to hit the visitor center in the Basin and check out the map of recent bear and mountain lion sightings. It’s hard to make out in the photo, but there were two sightings of a group of three mighty pumas at Laguna Meadow the week before our hike.

blogsmall-3807

The hike took way longer than any of us expected. Gramps thought we’d be back around noon. It was closer to 4 p.m. We were starving and looking forward to eating at the Starlight Theater outside the park in Terlingua Ghost Town. The ghost town is small area of ruins from the area’s mining days with a big gift shop, bed and breakfast accommodations and a few restaurants. It’s always packed with tourists and locals having a big time. The waits are long for the restaurant but there’s enough to do that you don’t really notice.

blogsmall-3813

blogsmall-3529

Day of the Dead items are a big component of the souvenirs at the gift shop.

Big Bend Thanksgiving – Day 2

blogsmall-3433

We kicked off our first full day in glorious Big Bend by taking a drive down the River Road, a Texas-famous stretch of highway along the Rio Grande. It starts in Terlingua and runs 60 miles or so to Presido. Our first stop was the tiny berg of Lajitas to visit the town’s mayor, Clay Henry. Clay is a goat. Several Clay Henrys have held the mayoralty. The folks in Lajita have many colorful stories about Clay’s hard-drinking ways.

blogsmall-3517

We stopped for lunch at the general store in Lajitas and I had the best sandwich I’ve ever had anywhere anytime. Pastrami on sourdough. It was decadent offering.

blogsmall-3468

A few miles up the road we stopped to check out the river and see the remains of the movie set Contrabando. Only one building remains out of the six or seven built 20 years ago. Just facades and shells with nothing on the inside, they were apparently flood damaged and falling in and were destroyed for safety reasons. I got a good photo of the church the last time we visited.

blogsmall-3446

blogsmall-3454

Not a lot to see so we just took some pictures of each other and moved up the road.

blogsmall-3493

We stopped at the rim of Colorado Canyon just as a guided group of young people rolled up. The spot was featured in the movie “Fandango” in the scene where Kevin Costner digs up a bottle of champagne from under a rock with D-O-M scratched into it. The rock and the inscription are still there. The guide was super enthusiastic about showing his group the rock. They were many and loud and climbing all over the place.

blogsmall-3499

The River Road twisting away across the desert.

blogsmall-3510

We eventually stopped at Closed Canyon in Big Bend Ranch State Park for a short late-afternoon hike. Closed Canyon is a classic slot canyon affair that is quite quite a bit narrower than it is deep.

blogsmall-3549

The canyon acts as an open-air drain to the Rio Grande for a closed in valley separated from the river by a high ridge. The water must really roar through there when it rains in the right spot.

blogsmall-3574

Like the slots in Arizona, the canyon features a series of progressively higher pour overs. Gina and I hung back while Abby and I continued down as far as we dared. We finally got to a drop that we thought would be hard for Abby to ascend, so we turned around.

blogsmall-3581

I got her to make a rare pose for me at the top of the pour over.

Two Are Better Than One

blogsmall-1490

I’d been meaning to get to Compton’s Double Falls for years and I finally just went ahead and did it. Hike was pretty simple: Park on Cave Mountain Road, hike downhill for a mile or so and then hike back up hill to the truck. It’s not a tough route to find and it’s even marked with orange ribbon.

blogsmall-1576

blogsmall-1582

I took a slightly different route on the way out and ran across this bear-shredded log. The area had a strong musky smell as if the bear had just been there. For the rest of the hike I sang and talked to let the area bears know that I came in peace for all mankind.

Waterfall In The Fall

blogsmall-8767

An unusually copious rain in western Arkansas a couple weeks ago had me out looking for a good waterfall to visit with my dad. We don’t normally get such a deluge in October around here. Some places got upwards of five inches of rain in the days before our hike. The rainfall map showed Bingham Hollow Falls, a 51-footer in Franklin County north of Ozark. It’s a very photogenic fall, but I imagine it takes a pretty good rain to get it running well. The drainage above the dropoff is not very big.

blogsmall-46

blogsmall-69

It started raining again shortly after we reached the top of the falls so we quickly scrambled down to the bottom and took shelter under the huge horseshoe of a an overhang. I made a couple of multishot panos to try to get most of the overhanging bluff into one photo. I’ve visited a lot of the state’s waterfalls and this one might be the prettiest and most interesting I’ve seen.

blogsmall-76

The leaves had just barely started to turn. I’d like to catch this fall flowing well during peak leaf color.

blogsmall-8806

Return to the Bend – Day 2

_D6H5927blogsmall

Our second day in the desert got off to an inauspicious start. We made the long drive over to Dagger Flat in hopes that a sea of yucca would be in full magnificent bloom. We’d seen many yuccas blooming in some areas of the park so I had high hopes. After a jouncey seven-mile drive on a dirt track we broke through into the flat and ….. nothing. The big bloom hadn’t started yet. So it was back to the drawing board. We headed over to the Grapevine Hills to hike the short trail through a geologic wonderland. Nana and Gramps had other plans so we didn’t catch up with them until later. It being midday, the light was harsh so the photography wasn’t that great.

_D6H5862blogsmall

_D6H5884blogsmall

The little mountain range is the remains of an eroded igneous intrusion. It’s littered with all manner of red flaky boulders. The first mile was a nice stroll on a well-beaten, flat path, but the final quarter mile was a pretty decent climb. In the warmer parts of the year the little valley is probably a furnace, but we had a nice day with temps in the lower 80s. The area looks like a classic place for the hero in a cowboy picture to get trapped by wild Comanches. Abby was dying to see some javelinas and she finally got her chance. They were sneaking around in the brush around a spring so I couldn’t get a picture.

_D6H5871blogsmall

Abby used her binoculars to watch for Indians. Note how she leaned up against a rock to keep from sky-lining herself and becoming an easy target. Louis L’Amour would have been proud.

_D6H5888blogsmall

The payoff at the end of the trail is this balancing rock situation and a magnificent view of the untrammeled desert beyond.

_D6H5889blogsmall

_D6H5906blogsmall

_D6H5954blogsmall

The ocotillo or Devil’s buggy whip was putting on a show across the park. A veritable forest of the thorny plants grows near the west entrance to the park. I went out there at sunset hoping to get a great sunset I could silhouette the branches and flowers against. The sunset was a dud so I did the best I could. The wind was blowing hard, causing the stems to sway and blurring most of the flowers. Right at dark a bunch of humming birds descended on flowers, so that was pretty neat.

_D6H5996blogsmall

A Walk In The Woods

_D6H3939blogsmall

Abby got two long nights of sleep Friday and Saturday, so we knew we needed to somehow exhaust her on Sunday if we expected her to go to sleep before midnight. We figured a 4.5-mile hike would be a good start. We headed up the Seven Hollows area at Petit Jean State Park, which offers the bonus of a chance to be crushed by falling trees. Luckily for us winds were forecast to be in the 15-25 mph range.

_D6H3883blogsmall

The hollows are really small shallow canyons formed by the erosion of the flat-topped Petit Jean Mountain. A mile or so down the trail we stopped for lunch and a family photo.

_D6H3896blogsmall

We stopped off to marvel at the natural bridge. It was nice to see the graffiti had been cleaned off the rock formation since my last visit a few years ago.

_D6H3906blogsmall2

A spur trail leads up one of the hollows to an area dubbed the Grotto, which features a waterfall at the head of the canyon. The waterfall was just a trickle. A lot of nice fall color remained and this is the view looking up from the floor of the Grotto. It was at about this point in the hike when Abby and I stopped to observe two strangely acting grasshoppers that shortly began mating. Abby opined that she thought they were fighting and I unthinkingly remarked that I thought they were making new grasshoppers. Well that launched a conversation that Gina and I weren’t prepared to have just yet. So we just made some vague comments and fended off the questions until Abby gave up on it about an hour later.

There’s A Ladder With a Bucket On It … Get It?

_D6H1508blogsmall

Dad and I stood a few dozen yards from the creek bank looking at the worse-for-wear ladder with the metal bucket hanging from it and speculated on how such a configuration might have come about. The ladder had been there for awhile for sure. Vines of what appeared to be poison ivy entwined along and around the two remaining rungs. It seemed obvious that the bucket came later and we remarked that it was somewhat interesting that the bucket hadn’t already been removed by some passerby. But it didn’t seem odd that the ladder and bucket were together. Painters famously use ladders and buckets simultaneously all the time. What was odd, however, was the location of the ladder and bucket. In the middle of nowhere. In the bottom of an Ozarks box canyon miles from the nearest road of any consequence. The bucket had a single bullet hole in it, so that might’ve been a clue. Dad expanded the scope and began describing the ancient ladders he had seen still hanging high in the cliffs of the Grand Canyon. Then we continued with our hike. In an epic episode of failing to put two and two together, we totally missed the significance of the bucket hanging from the ladder.

Schoolhouse Rock

_D6H1429blogsmall

No real good reason for the title of this post, except for this.

Saturday didn’t promise to provide optimum conditions for waterfall photography, but I went out anyway. I had not given Schoolhouse Falls serious consideration, despite its being relatively close to my house, because Time Ernst’s description in his waterfall book is not exactly glowing. That was a mistake.

Fall In The Ozarks

Every fall I intend to go out and shoot some epic fall foliage and every year I seem to miss the great color. So the third week in October we planned to take Daisy up in the Ozarks and do the classic-fall-foliage-gawking thing. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find an RV park with hookups that had any vacancies for that weekend. We had to settle for a hotel room in Harrison.

Scattershooting …

… while wondering whatever happened to Blackie Sherrod, who inexplicably doesn’t rate a Wikipedia entry. Life’s been pretty dull since I started my part-time job back in November. But I need to clean out the ol’ notebook so here’s a collection of recent photos and the mind-numbing stories behind them. Up top we have the old post office in Scotland, Ark. A few weeks ago Gina, Abby and I toured lower Van Buren County, new territory for us. The tiny burg of Scotland looked pretty interesting. We’ll have to go back sometime. I was pretty disappointed to later observe a newer, shinier Scotland post office on the main highway.